Welcome back dear readers!
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An overlook in the Arataki Rainforest |
It is with such joy to get to write this blog post from the South Island of New Zealand! Joe and I have been dreaming about visiting this country ever since we first met, and our excitement and anticipation has grown as we've traveled Eastward around the globe these past eight months. After 22 countries, we have finally arrived in the land of snow capped mountains, pristine coastlines, glaciers, endless hiking trails (or "tracks"), crystal clear lakes, rivers, elves, hobbits and wizards. Despite the fact that we have only been here two weeks, it has already been even more wonderful and spectacular than we anticipated. Plus, we've been able to share our time here thus far with our good friend Steve from Washington which has made our travels even more special and memorable.
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Carol shows off our new home |
New Zealand is about the size of Colorado and some of its best attractions are tucked away in rather remote locations so we chose to get around by car (a novelty we haven't experienced since the UK) for this portion of our adventure. This has altered our modus operandi of public transport, but has also opened up some amazing opportunities. For the record, there are lots of companies that rent out RVs, cars, vans and hippie campers (or "combies") kitted out for luxury travel with hideaway beds, showers, kitchenettes, etc. for roughly $100 per day. Therefore, for budgetary reasons we picked up a seven passenger 1997 Toyota Emina minivan from
New Zealand Discount Car Rental for about 32 NZD per day. The agency was about five kilometers (walking distance) from the airport, which we did "backpack" upon arrival in Auckland, not realizing that the agency actually provides a shuttle service from the airport (oops!). Anyway, our new home was a wonderful chance to spread out a bit (not having to repack a backpack each day), large enough to transport us, a few friends, and our luggage, but not equipped to sleep, clean, or cook in. Despite the intended purpose, we are proud to say we've managed to do all three in our Emina on several occasions for a third of the cost of the "
Jucy", "Wicked", "Happy Camper" and "Spaceships" we've seen along the way.
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A romantic dinner out on the back porch |
Our first night at the "
Manukau Top 10 Holiday Park" near the Aukland airport turned out to be the perfect place from which to launch ourselves into New Zealand. Not just because it had a free campsite available at the last minute, but also because we quickly discovered it was the exit point for many car camping holiday goers who were looking to unload the equipment they had used for four or five weeks, and couldn't take with them on the plane back home. Naturally, we freely acquired an amazing amount of stuff that people were very happy to hand off to us: tupperware, canned foods, pastas, spices, dishes, utensils, pots/pans, a power inverter, sleeping mats and pillows and a very useful New Zealand Lonely Planet Guidebook (never mind the fact that it appeared to have been badly photocopied someplace in SE Asia and proudly says "New Zealan" on the cover). We suspect many of the items we picked up had likely been around the islands multiple times, being swapped between various campervans, before joining us in our Emina. After I organized ourselves a proper kitchen in the back of the van, and a vastly improved bedding situation for our tent with newly acquired items, we were extremely excited to start out on our journey.
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Picturesque view from the Arataki visitor center |
Before meeting up with Steve, Joe and I had a couple days to ourselves to explore the northern part of the North Island. It didn't take long to see what all the NZ "fuss" is about. We immediately found a plethora of campsites, picturesque roads, mountains, hiking trails/tracks, beaches, and nature walks all extremely well established and maintained by the NZ Department of Conservation. The only challenge was simply choosing which area to explore.
We ended up spending one afternoon at the Wenderholm Regional Park and enjoyed our first NZ hike (or "tramp") with ferns, birds, cicadas (deafeningly loud at times), and grassy knolls ideal for frolicking on. That evening, we scarfed down a massive order of take away fish and chips while overlooking
Hatfields Beach, and took advantage of some "
freedom camping" accommodation at that same location in our minivan on a leaky inflatable mattress we found the day before which Joe blew up using only lung power and shoved in the back of the van. We can't say it was the best night's sleep ever but we were so excited to be in NZ that the lack of sleep wasn't even noticed.
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Carol frolicking in Wenderholm Regional Park |
The next day started with a morning jog on the sands of Orewa Beach before getting a bit lost on our way to the visitor center of the
Arataki Rainforest where we were directed to the beautiful and secluded riverside
Karamatura Campground which we had entirely to ourselves! The setting was idyllic. Our grassy field was nestled between rainforest ferns, Kauri trees, a bubbling creek, and cute little ducks that appeared to be guarding our tent for most of the day. Our gourmet pasta meal was delicious despite running out of fuel halfway through cooking and needing to let our noodles soak for a half hour while they got soft enough to eat, and that night we fell asleep staring at the southern hemisphere stars and listening to a trickling river a stones throw from our tent. The next morning included a short hike through the dense and bright green forest to a waterfall and a very chilly swim below the falls before heading off to the town of Titirangi where we ate Kebabs (very good, but nothing like the tasty Shwarmas in Israel!) and took advantage of some free wifi before heading back to Aukland and...
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Joe, Steve, and Wellington from Victoria Lookout |
Steve! For the first time in our travels, we had a companion from back home in the US, and it was a joy! Not only did we get to hear a bit about life back home, but our travel group was given a fresh injection of new excitement and life as we headed South into the land of the kiwis. Before leaving Aukland we climbed up
One Tree Hill (which U2 named a song after) for a fantastic view of the city and its surroundings. There was no tree on top, but it but did have an very tall obelisk honoring the Maori people. Not being in a hurry, we headed southward to
Matamata, a small town known for rearing race horses which also has the distinction of being the location of the Hobbiton film set from both The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit.
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Just dropping by for second breakfast |
Arriving in Middle Ea... I mean New Zealand, I must admit that we were hopeful of spotting some round doors, but we hadn't strategically organized any truly geeky LOTR moments ahead of time and wondered whether we should have planned ahead for finding tour locations, specific tour times, availability of tickets, etc. We worried needlessly. The timing of our arrival was perfect, and spotting the Hobbiton information building in Matamata couldn't have been easier (it looked exactly like it had been transported directly from one of the movies). We walked into the thatched building, immediately purchased movie set tour tickets, had just enough time to grab a quick coffee at a cafe across the street, and were immediately put on a bus to Hobbiton!
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We weren't admitted |
Hobbiton was truly was everything any LOTR fan could hope for (minus the fact that you are not allowed to permanently live there) with cute hobbit homes, green grassy knolls, vegetable gardens, butterflies, and flowers everywhere. We took endless photos in front of Bag End, Rosie and Sam's house, by the big Party Tree and then savored a free pint of ale/ginger beer at the Green Dragon after our tour (it comes in pints?!).
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Carol and a perfect sunset in Tauranga |
Our evening concluded with the three of us watching the sun go down behind Pilot's Bay in Tauranga at the base of
Mt. Managanui while working on another massive pile of fish and chips (plus sausage and chicken nuggets this time) per Steve's recommendation. The weather couldn't have been better, and we all agreed it had been a pretty grand introduction to our road trip. Other than the fact that we had no idea where we would sleep, it was ideal. Back in the van we made our way to Lake Okareka near the geothermal area of Rotorua and found a DOC campsite on the edge of a small lake where we set up our tents during the only twenty minutes of rain since we had arrive in NZ. The adorable hedgehog sightings and funny little animals which we suspect were potoroos (miniature kangaroo-like creatures) made up for the weather conditions though, and we fell asleep to the faint smell of sulfur in our noses and excitement to see some geothermal wonders in our brains.

While breakfasting in Rotorua the next morning we overheard the couple in the next booth talking about some unmarked hot-springs. They were kind enough to divulge the location, and we took a long soak in the fabulous Kerosene Creek, hidden amongst the trees and exactly like a giant natural hot tub pool replenished by a decent size waterfall which topped off the scenery.
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Kerosene Creek was an unexpected highligh |
Passing by the clear blue waters of Lake Taupo we made our way to Tongariro National Park which boasts the Tongoriro Alpine Crossing, billed as the top day hike in NZ, and most famous to geeks around the world for winding its way past Mount Ngauruhoe (the film location for Mount Doom)! Tongariro National Park is a very volcanically active region with trio of large volcanoes and innumerable geysers, hot-springs, geothermal vents, old lava flows. Driving through the region it wasn't uncommon to see clouds of steam rising up from random roadside locations. The hike was spectacular, and we ended up making it almost to the halfway point before diving into the dense and rich rum raisin Christmas Cake we carried with us (another of the free items from the Holiday Park back near Aukland) and heading back to the car before night fell.
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Day hiking in Tongariro National Park |
After another campout pasta dinner, more bright stars and gorgeous morning views of the Tongariro volcanoes, we headed off for Wellington where we had a slight race against time in order to see the Weta Cave before it closed for the day. The Weta Cave facilitates public tours and information regarding Weta Workshop and Weta Digital, both of which were made known worldwide by their work on the LOTR films. Putting our pride aside, we got pretty enthusiastic about being so close to the heart of so much movie magic, and took our photos with the life-size trolls in front of the workshops. Another highlight from our short stopover in Wellington was Mount Victoria, which has a fantastic 360 degree view lookout at the top, and (just in case the reader is a LOTR fan) is also famous for being the location of the "get out of the road!" scene. From this point onward, "get out of the road!" was used quite a lot by our group. A triple dorm at Wellington Youth Hostel suited us great that night, and Joe and I realized it was the first beds we had slept in in over two weeks.
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Hanging out with the trolls near the Weta Workshop in Wellington |
Picking up the pace of the narrative at this point, our ferry-boat crossed to the South Island on a relatively peaceful day (considering the fact that Wellington is known for high winds), and we hit the incredibly scenic but insanely windy roads towards Golden Bay and Able Tasman where we camped next to a nearly deserted crescent shaped beach right out of a picture book. The beach also happened to mark one end of the Able Tasman Great Track which we hiked partway to Awaroa; sometimes looking out over the water while walking along densely wooded cliffs, and at other times hiking along the beaches themselves. We even crossed one wide estuary barefoot and up to our knees in water at low tide to continue the hike.
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View from the Bealey Spur Track just East of Arthur's Pass |
Although our time felt somewhat limited (we needed to make it to Queenstown by the 17th), we made many many stops along the way, choosing the West coast route primarily, with one deviation up into the mountains to spend the night at Arthur's Pass where Steve did epic battle with the revered Kea birds all night while trying to defend our tents and car (long story, but basically the Kea birds will try and eat anything that appears remotely edible which includes cars, tents, and road signs, which makes it dangerous to leave anything unattended, and darn difficult to sleep at night while something is chewing on your tent tarp right next to your ear). The Bealey Spur Track gave us some of the most remarkable panoramic views the next morning, and we continued to be blessed with clear skies despite the odds building up against us as summer was giving way to fall in the Southern Hemisphere. Addition and memorable stops along the way South also included the Buller Gorge Swingbridge, Punakaiki Pancake Rocks, hikes up to both Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers, and a potato raffle in honor of the upcoming St. Patrick's Day which involved writing our names on potatoes and chucking them in the river.
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Joe, Steve, and a Weka (not a kiwi) at Able Tasman |
Speaking of St. Patrick's Day, after ten nights of sleeping in tents, 2500 kilometers of driving, loads more visually spectacular sights, delicious foods, and innumerable times yelling "get out of the road!" at birds, cars, and other things in our immediate path, we finally arrived in Queenstown.
Queenstown meant Good News and Bad News. First, the bad news: we had to say goodbye to Steve. It felt like months since Steve and I had first taken our picture together in front of a gigantic statue of a dwarf upon his arrival at the Aukland airport, but time had also gone by rapidly in spite of sharing so many wonderful experiences together, and Carol and I both wished that we could have spent more time with him. Second, the good news: we had new traveling companions to fill the void in our lives! Sean and Steph were waiting for us in Queenstown, geared up and ready to brave the renowned Milford Sound Track with us!!! That evening, as a band of five (an incredible honor for Carol and I to turn our team of two into five for one day), we climbed up above Queenstown into the cloud layer via the Skyline Trail to the top of the gondola lift in the pouring rain, and that night celebrated St. Patrick at a local pub together.

The rest will have to wait, as I am currently being ushered into dinner which Carol and Steph have graciously prepared (The attentive reader will note that at some point the author switched) on the eve of our Milford Sound Adventure. Until next, time...
- Carol and Joe and Friends