Midnight in Dhaka

Goodbye Nepal!

Season's Greetings Readers,

To begin with, we hope this update finds you all well and mostly recovered from any probable Christmas cookie, hot chocolate, or eggnog overdoses. As mentioned previously, we have been enjoying a variety of non-traditional celebratory indulgences. For instance, while I write to you from the veranda of the "Tarzan Jungle" guesthouse surrounded by artwork primarily featuring Bob Marley, Carol is currently across the road enjoying a well earned Thai massage.

But, before we summarize our experiences in the South of Thailand, we will attempt to relate an episode in our adventure that may seem a trifle unreal.

For budgetary reasons, our flights to Thailand were booked on Bangladesh's Biman Airlines. Rumor (rumour) has it that Biman still flies a DC-10 on some routes, which might give the impression of being behind the times, but we were actually very pleased with our flights and would gladly fly Biman in the future. The only catch to our budget-friendly flight was a 15 hour overnight layover in Dhaka, the capital city of Bangladesh, where we would be confined to the airport since we didn't have visas to enter the country. Carol is a good sport though, and we decided it would be a fine test of our adaptability and tenacity. We had no idea.

Everest is somewhere out there

In a security check line (queue) at the Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport, the gentleman in front of us asked if we were traveling to Dhaka, Bangladesh. Even though our final destination was Bangkok, we answered yes, to which he simply replied, "bad timing". He went on to explain that in a boycott of the 2014 general election to be held on January 5th, all major opposition parties in Bangladesh had called for general strikes and road blockades which had pretty much brought the country to a standstill for weeks, with the added threat of real violence in the air.

Ashra, Inma, and Carol in front of Parliament

Of course we were a bit disheartened to hear this, but we responded that we were just transiting through Dhaka, and Farzeen (our new friend) assured us that the airport would be safe enough. By this time we were through security, waiting for our boarding gate to be announced and having quite a good conversation about travel, politics, paragliding, The West Wing, etc. with Farzeen and another Bengali who was flying back from the same conference. It was only after he discovered that we were going to be stuck in the Dhaka airport for 15 hours that Farzeen insisted that we allow him to find a way for us into the country for our comfort and under his protection until our flight the next morning.

So, after a very comfortable flight (which randomly included an episode of "Mr. Bean") we deplaned to find our friend waiting for us as promised [7pm]. And, after disappearing for a long moment at immigration, he magically returned with two 7 day visas compliments of the head of security. Carol and I were horrified that we were incredibly inconveniencing this complete stranger, but he just persisted in an extremely gracious way, and before we knew it, we were touring around Dhaka with three new friends: Farzeen, and two amazing friends of his who braved the blockades to come pick him up [8pm].

Dhaka National Parliament House at night

The evening began with a shower, three rounds of coffee, and an amazing home-cooked meal at Farzeen's family home which overlooked a large part of the city [9pm]. After dinner the five of us sat down to a truly inspiring conversation in which Carol and I learned about our hosts' passion for humanitarian causes and ongoing efforts to help improve life for people, especially youth, in Bangladesh. Eight years ago Farzeen and his friends started an extremely proactive organization called Oggro, which speaks very well for itself, so I won't try to describe the heart of their work here, except to say that it resonated with our own desire to make a tangible difference in the lives of the people that surround us everyday. Afterwards, the five of us headed back out into the city [11pm].

Ashra, Farzeen, and Joe enjoying a coffee at 3am in Dhaka

Our tour included the University of Dhaka (modeled after Oxford) where we got to explore one of the colleges and see many different sculptures and monuments honoring the university students and professors who had been killed in independence-related violence in 1971 [1am]. We also swung by the National Parliament House (designed by architect Louis I. Kahn) which is a pretty impressive sight, and cruised along a stretch of the Buriganga River recently renovated by army engineers; quite beautiful by night with its illuminated bridges reflected in the water. On the way to the Westin Hotel we got to see the American and many other embassies in the international center of the city, where we concluded our sight-seeing with amazing desserts from the Westin cafe and beer from a drunk pilot from Abu Dhabi [3am]. By the time we got back to our friend's house, we had just enough time for a couple of hours rest in their spare room (during which two of our friends continued to study for exams and work on administration for various Oggro social programs), and then a lift back to the airport from our hosts [6:30am].

Carol at the Westin in Dhaka

I honestly believe that stories shouldn't always have moral lessons attached, but it is impossible for me to conclude this chapter of our adventures without illuminating the fact that this was yet another lesson for Carol and I in hospitality and what it means to be a neighbor. We were washed, fed, entertained, given gifts, and trusted by someone we had never met before (but now consider to be a very good friend). At a time in his life when it wasn't convenient (middle of final exams, middle of the night, country in turmoil, etc.) he showed us every kindness, and inspired us to do the same; not just with people that we know and love, but with anyone that we might meet along our travels in life.

In his steps,

Joe & Carol